London Fashion Week strikes balance

More robust than ever, London Fashion Week, dedicated to fall-winter 2015 collections, will kick things off on Friday, February 20.

Over the course of five days, 78 designers will put on a series of shows and presentations as part of a finely-tuned operation: "The first day is generally set aside for highly creative collections, followed by a Saturday more geared toward well-known designers but also often avant-garde figures like JW Anderson, for example," said Nathalie Constanty, fashion, beauty and design consultant for the Bon Marché, stating: "Established British brands and luxury brands feature on the second part of the programme." 

Gareth Pugh is returning to London (This photo is from the fall-winter 2014-15 womenswear fashion week in Paris) | PixelFormula - Pixel Formula

This season’s delicate balance features a number of novelties. Topping the list: Gareth Pugh will return to celebrate the 10th anniversary of his designs in London, where he has decided to return for good. Australian brand Sass & Bide, which has showed in New York since 2013, will also be returning to the London catwalks. It will be the brand’s first show without its founders, Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke, who left last July.

It will also be the first collection designed by British designer Anthony Cuthbertson, who has previously worked for Daks, Max Mara and Amanda Wakeley.  

This 61st edition will be marked by collaborations: Georgian designer David Koma has partnered with the brand Malone Souliers to release a collection of women's shoes that will be unveiled at his label’s show on Sunday, February 22. 

The traditional British luxury accessories brand Aspinal of London, meanwhile, has partnered with the women’s ready-to-wear brand Etre Cécile in designing five different styles of bags. 

Alongside British fashion heavyweights (Paul Smith, Burberry Prorsum, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Pringle of Scotland, etc.), the list continues with Christopher Kane, Erdem, Jonathan Saunders, JW Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, Emilia Wickstead and Peter Pilotto.  

That’s not to mention up-and-comers, including the winners of the talent identification scheme NEWGEN, which was launched by BFC in collaboration with Topshop: Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard and Sadie Williams will make their first appearance alongside 1205, Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, the French designer Faustine Steinmetz, Marques'Almeida and Ryan Lo, who already made their first appearances last season. 

Le Kilt, a fashion brand created in 2014 by Samantha McCoach that aims to put a modern twist on the Scottish garment, and Phoebe English will make their debuts as part of the schedule of presentations. 

The same goes for Joseph and Mother of Pearl, who will be putting on shows for the first time. The unknown talents of tomorrow will also have a chance to impress their elders: graduates from the renowned Central Saint Martins fashion school will present their final year collections on the first day of Fashion Week. 

Stéphanie Salti
 
 

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