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Nicola Mira
Jan 15, 2020
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AMI fêtes 9th anniversary with Paris Fashion Week Men's opening show

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Jan 15, 2020

A red velvet curtain, an accordion player, an old theatre at the bottom of Montmartre hill. All the elements were there to celebrate in style the most Parisian of Parisian labels. And it was a highly successful celebration for Alexandre Mattiussi, who opened the Paris Fashion Week Men’s on Tuesday night, at the Le Trianon theatre, with the 9th anniversary show of his label AMI.

Two looks by AMI Paris for next winter - ph Dominique Muret

The models walk through the stalls sporting a chic-nonchalant attitude, accompanied throughout the show by accordion music. Some of the boys are clad in ample white gaberdine cotton trousers, black frilled shirts and white overcoats with generous lapels. Others wear houndstooth-check ensembles or grey wool suits over tone-on-tone turtleneck sweaters, with a red bobble in the buttonhole in lieu of a flower.

A bowler hat and a black and white crochet-knitted scarf add a quirky, poetic feel to some of the looks. The AMI boys love to dress up for a party, wearing their best frilled shirts or a glittering turtleneck sweater over black jeans. They are also keen on lozenge-patterned mohair knitwear, while the AMI girls wear long pencil skirts.

AMI’s classic wardrobe features a palette of white, black and grey, with flashes of bright red and emerald green. Some of the boys are wearing a skirt. “The maxi kilt is a tribute to Jean Paul Gaultier, who recently celebrated his 50th anniversary, while the women’s oversize headband is a nod to Thierry Mugler,” said Alexandre Mattiussi backstage.

AMI - Fall/Winter 2020 - Menswear – Paris - © PixelFormula

For the last act, all the models gather together on the stage, where the huge red curtain slowly parts to reveal a cardboard scenery depicting a familiar Parisian backdrop, with grey walls, street lights and the city’s signature metro station sign. It is on this imaginary Parisian street, with its small hotel and striped bar awning, that the show ends to rapturous applause.

“I dreamt about this. Nine is my lucky number. I wasn't going to celebrate a 10th anniversary! I love this collection because it's very elegant, and a little theatrical. There’s something very easy in these looks, and at the same time, it's couture,” said Mattiussi, who always manages to subtly express this kind of Parisian style, at once classy and spontaneous.

Needless to say, the Le Trianon theatre, a Belle Epoque favourite, was full to the brim on Tuesday night, from stalls to balconies. Among the front-row celebrities, Ladj Ly, the director of Academy Award-nominated French film ‘Les Misérables’, actors Virginie Ledoyen, Vincent Dedienne, Nicolas Maury and Vincent Elbaz, ballet dancer Hugo Marchand, and singers Christine and the Queens, Camélia Jordana and Cécile Cassel.

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