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Benjamin Fitzgerald
Jan 17, 2018
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Emerging designers get ball rolling at Paris fashion week

Translated by
Benjamin Fitzgerald
Jan 17, 2018

It was a grey mood for the opening day of Paris Fashion Week. But still, there were big crowds too; Amanda Lear and the Manko Paris team among the guests in attendance for the first show of the week -- the collection from Spaniard Adolfo Gomez Palomo and his label Palomo Spain.

Palomo Spain - Fall-Winter2018 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

Presented inside an apartment in Place des Vosges, the collection was inspired by the world of hunting and Velasquez portraits, with a forest and fir trees set up inside under white lights (unflattering), which served as the backdrop for the Spanish label's always-theatrical looks.

It was a collection slightly more sobre than previous ones. Models wore billowy shorts, leather shirting, long coats, corsets, capes and jumpsuits; a lyrical and poetic representation of a hunter's outfit, each topped by a feathered hat designed by fellow Spaniard, Tolentino.

Typical of the designer, other looks were more out-there too; unfolding culottes, sequin suits, lamé dresses, Liberace-esque furs -- the models even walking out in high-heeled shoes.

Another special look of the show: a series a leather leggings exposing the buttocks, revisiting the myth of the cowboy.

Based in London, Palomo graduated from the London College of Fashion and first showcased a collection in New York with his show Orlando, inspired by the same book by Virginia Woolf, before a global press and social media bonanza set the brand off with one of its dresses being worn by Beyonce, marking the birth of her twins.

The designer also showed in Madrid in September; his Hotel Palomo collection sending out models in groom's outfit and evening dress -- all languorous, fringed, frilly and glittered. It was a show attended by actress, Rossy de Palma.

Namacheko - Fall-Winter2018 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

It was a radically different atmosphere at Namacheko, who chose for its 7pm show, the Niemeyer space, named after the Brazilian architect, and located at the Place du Colonel Fabien. In the Salle du Conseil National, under an impressive white dome, the Kurdish-Swedish designer Dilan Kurr, presented the second collection of the Paris fashion week schedule, for the label co-founded with his sister, Lezan. It was a calmer mood, and slightly soporific in the choice of music. 

A graphic, classic style went down the runway; inspired by the colours of painter Francis Bacon, and played with warm fabrics -- wools, Kvadrat, silk, fur -- mixing in the designers' origins with a contemporary idea of clothing, somewhat futuristic also with the working of volumes, cuts and superpositions. 

Concluding the end of the first day, the collective behind GmbH came together inside Aérosol, the street-art hub in Paris' 18th arrondissement, which once served as the residence of SNCF trains.

GMBH - Fall-Winter2018 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

The atmosphere was perfect for the Berlin design collective, lead by Pakistani-Norwegian photographer, Benjamin Alexander Huseby (a regular contributor to Dazed and Purple magazines, as well as shooting campaigns for Adidas and Lanvin) and German-Turkish designer Serhat Isik.

Having showed in July with a Utopian dream of Europe -- echoing both their roots and the richness of the Middle East -- GmbH was inspired this time by the recent discoveries of Vikings and their origins.

It was the certainly the day's most successful show, and had the most invigorating soundtrack (an electro remix of the German singer Nico); ingenious in its influences and looks seen in a number of Nordic sweats mixed with sports and motocross.

There were suits in advantageous cuts, and pants in every which way: PVC, denim, silver, and even high-waisted which sat under velvet jackets. It all made for a very inspired and terrible sexy collection.

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