In Paris, Egonlab and Etudes Studio's put on a dark show
The Men's Paris Fashion Week started on Tuesday in a dark and slightly twilight atmosphere, where collections were dominated by an obscure palette, as if the prevailing crisis had rubbed off on the clothes. Egonlab and Etudes Studio, in particular, took their guests on a journey in the dark night through the city.
Thunderstorm rumbling in the distance, flickering street lamps on a dark street and whimsical creatures appearing on the set like they just arrived from a dream world. The Egonlab show was very nightlife, underground and punk-influenced. As evidenced by the numerous leather pieces, the metallic spine necklaces, a few moth-eaten jumpers with big holes and the red-checked tartan, which ran through the collection in an overskirt, a scarf, a quilted jacket or a coat.
For the rest, casual looks, with a loose layering of floral shirts, jumpers or denim jackets and multicoloured fleece jackets over a pair of worn-out jeans, alternated with more chic outfits like tweed suits, reinvented in a sexy style, with feminine silhouettes in camisoles and flowing satin jumpsuits, or with bold outfits, such as those of models in boots, bermuda shorts or leather trousers wrapped in a maxi fur or an extra large stricking pink jacket.
Suits, in particular, were reworked in new proportions, with peaked shoulders and wide sleeves, while the lapels of coats were knitted in colourful bands, extending to their feet like a long scarf. The collection for autumn-winter 2023/24 designed by Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec also offered other desirable pieces such as a petrol blue mini puffer jacket, a velvet jacket with a diamond patterned collar and knitted edge. Or an incredible coat made entirely of garlands.
Other finds, which are sure to please fashion fans, include a pleated mini-kilt in the shape of an upturned shirt, with its sleeves hanging down the back, to be layered over trousers. Or a denim garter belt, which can also be slipped over a pair of jeans. And let's not forget the belts with Gucci's recognisable gold double G buckle, the result of a collaboration with the Italian luxury house.
"We designed this collection as the real world counterpart to Wonderland, where everyone draws on their dreams or nightmares to build their personality in real life," the duo explained backstage. "We reworked all the tailoring with a very grunge and punk feel. It's a wardrobe that's becoming more feminine, but we're still genderless," say the two designers, who are now distributed through around fifty retailers and have just launched their own website.
On the Etudes Studio side, the décor was just as disturbing. An old abandoned concrete car park, lit only by the beams of a few spotlights. The show opened with a melancholic song sung live by the artist-composer Koudlam, who slowly descended the ramps in a suit, hat and dark glasses.
The first models appeared in total looks, from the rubber boots to the caps. The clothes seemed worn and faded, all in the same shades. Old pink, beige, grey, black, blue-green. The collection offered both casual outfits (sweaters, faded denim, tracksuits) and more formal outfits (suits, camel coat). The show ended with a nod: white graffiti embroidered on a large black jumper or on a wool suit.
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