Translated by
Barbara Santamaria
Oct 6, 2020
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Lutz Huelle fights off Covid-19 blues with pyjamas and optimism

Translated by
Barbara Santamaria
Oct 6, 2020

It’s not easy to stay positive during these challenging times, but it’s necessary. This becomes apparent fairly quickly when talking with someone as optimistic as Lutz Huelle. In a candid video interview, the German designer talks about the inspiration for his latest collection, without the need for masks and with a huge smile. Exquisite garments make an appearance, with Lutz Huelle revealing their intricate details, hinting at possible outfit combinations and showing the lookbook that showcases the full collection. This season, the emphasis is not on the showmanship, but rather the human essence of his artistry.

This pink ensemble was the starting point for the new collection - Lutz Huelle

“At first, it was really hard to think about what people would want to wear. It seemed absurd to think about fashion amid everything that was happening,” said the designer about the first month of lockdown, a strange period during which he could hardly work. “What’s the point of thinking about clothing if you are going to stay home?,” he asks, summoning up days spent reading, lounging and watching television. “There came a point where I told myself to look at what's around me. And I realised that pyjamas are really just a very comfortable two-piece suit,” he laughs. It was a lightbulb moment and one that delivered the starting point for the latest collection: a washed pink satin pyjama set.

“I designed clothing to wear at home. Easy styles that will take you from lounging at home to a shopping trip or even a night out,” he explains. He wanted the outfits to be both beautiful and cosy. “I wanted to do sportswear that doesn’t look like sportswear. I’ve always loved sportswear but for the first time in my life, I didn’t feel like wearing joggers. I wanted to find garments that provided the same level of comfort but were more beautiful,” he adds, showing the elastic waistbands of the pyjama-style trousers.

‘Le Pyjama Rose’ collection features t-shirts and sweatshirts with gathered taffeta hems, fluid cotton and linen coats, rainproof nylon raincoats and cropped denim jackets with drawstring cinches that create a wasp-like 50s-style waist. “This was not the time to do something complicated or pretentious. I think we need simple, interesting things that can stand the test of time,” said the designer as he showed part of the Spring/Summer 2021 lookbook. The images show a diverse cast of five women who were invited to style the collection in their own unique way.   

Lutz Huelle friends styled the collection in their own unique way to show the versatility of the pieces - Lutz Huelle

The result is also showcased in a series of short films with behind-the-scenes clips from the photoshoot. “For the first time, I didn’t think about specific looks or silhouettes, but about what I want to wear. This is not a runway collection, it’s ready-to-wear.” He adds: “Sometimes I think we forget that fashion is about designing clothing we would want to wear. That’s the most important thing. Amid the drama and negativity of the past few months, for me this was essential.”

Asked about the future of fashion and whether digital shows will replace physical events, Lutz says: “We all miss the excitement and enthusiasm of the shows, and I think nothing can replace them. But I also think it's a good idea to make them more human and personal. At this time, we must insist on the emotional side of fashion. And he adds that collections succeed “when they come from the heart”.

Amid uncertainty over when normal life will resume, the designer claims he will continue to ensure his collections are a mirror of our circumstances. “We need to figure out the times we are living in in order to continue working. Fashion is about that too. Fashion has always reflected what happens around us.”

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