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Marine Serre: Visions of a very foreign planet

Published
Feb 25, 2020
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Futurism in fashion generally looks old fashioned, with inevitable echoes of Pierre Cardin and Courrèges, though not at Marinne Serre, practically the only designer who manages to sculpt a vision of a foreign planet and style that seems plausible and cool.


Marine Serre - Fall-Winter2020 - Womenswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


 
Serre has a dark yet beautiful conception of people “tumbling down into the futurist wormhole,” as she wrote in her program, of multiple generations embarking on an intergalactic voyage.
 
A bizarre mix of the familiar and the fantastic – all conditioned by our contemporary concerns. So, many models wore face and surgical masks, albeit made to match the houndstooth sci-fi governess dresses that were the heart of this show.

Serre’s selection of fabrics was not all that revolutionary – fuchsia knit dresses; cotton djellabas; embroidered table cloth frocks; or faux fur bed-cover coats. But the results were often revolutionary.


Marine Serre - Fall-Winter2020 - Womenswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


 
Staged inside Le Centquatre, a huge art space in a former factory at the top of Paris' 19th arrondissement, with a forbidding industrial soundtrack and lots of large darkened mirrors, the show was dark, yet not dystopian. The audience perched on low carpet-covered benches like polite hippies.
 
Worn by a cast that varied from veteran models to tiny tots and some colorful characters such as Reverend Sister-hoodie; hunter gatherers; or awakened sleepers. Many clad in the designers signature mini ball print, the leitmotif of all Serre collections.
 
Entitled Mind Mélange Motor this was a somewhat weird, often wacky, but ultimately rather beautiful fashion moment, and a reminder why Paris will always be the true center of the fashion universe.
 
 

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