Moschino, GCDS, and Plein Sport’s extravagant presentations
Milan’s atmosphere becomes more and more eclectic as Fashion Week progresses. Moschino and GCDS marked the return of innovative runway shows, both slipping in a mysterious golden key into their invitation cards and exceeded expectations on Thursday evening. Meanwhile, Plein Sport immersed its audience into the metaverse.
Moschino’s key gave access to a sumptuous hall designed between a Baroque and Louis XIV style. The hosts welcomed guests into a grand living room featuring bright white tile floors, pedestal tables, armchairs, and antique paintings. The models strutted about with added emphasis, striking exaggerated poses here and there to show off their ensembles.
Their chic black and white tweed sets and cropped jackets with golden buttons displayed detailed elements that, on closer inspection, seem to have come straight out of the palace’s furniture. Antique gold keys hung from micro-bags and were seen stamped throughout a black velvet jumpsuit while a keyhole framed the chest area of a fitted dress.
It was then silverware that took center stage. Golden spoons and forks applied on dresses and jackets replaced military trimmings. Gold detailing illuminated collars and cuffs, inspired by the panels and gold leaf adornments of the building’s antique furniture. The red velvet fabric on the armchairs and sofas was replicated in red quilted bustier dresses and jackets, while curtains, fringed carpets, and tapestries inspired the majestic train dresses.
A grandfather clock was transformed into a sheath dress, Japanese screens into a geometric dress, while gold frames stood out from the clothes they pompously bordered, at times seductively placed framing the breasts or buttocks. Moschino’s usual delirious and playful take on accessories was scattered throughout the runway looks; Mini crystal chandeliers hung as earrings while curtain tassel cords acted as belts, a lampshade transformed into a hat (as well as an antique porcelain vase and a candlestick), and a silver tray morphed into a bustier top. Everything shined and sparkled throughout this particularly kitsch and baroque-inspired lineup.
The GCDS show opened a door to a whole different realm. Behind a mysterious and misty door bathed in a red glow at the end of a catwalk, fantastical creatures walked out one by one. Sleeping beauties appeared wearing mohair-fringed cutout playsuits in pastel shades. Witches, on the other hand, wore glamorous dresses with big bows under magnificent coats in neon pink, apple green, and white.
The hooded women donned long-haired or curly wool pink dresses, resembling Yetis wearing patent thigh-high boots. Superheroines also made an appearance: Catwoman was uniformed in a blood-red pair of boots over an openwork pink mesh jumpsuit while Black Widow hid behind a long lace veil, wearing stockings and a garter belt.
Plein Sport changed the scenery, plunging its audience into a digital dimension. German designer, Philipp Plein, did not orchestrate a fashion show for its sportswear line’s big relaunch, but instead opted to immerse his brand into a new intangible universe. His recently purchased space for building a hotel in the heart of Milan was transformed into a spaceship with numerous screens.
One of the screens opened up suddenly in a flash flood of lightning, revealing a humanoid metallic robot moving forward into the middle of the stage on a metallic pedestal, introducing itself as Romeo 0.1. The designer took the opportunity to present his many NFT and metaverse projects to the public through Romeo after just recently investing the equivalent of $1.4 million on a virtual space in the Decentraland metaverse.
Through these digital implementations, Plein Sport aims to become "the most advanced technological brand in the luxury sector” though so far, we have only seen the brand exhibit virtual sneakers.
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