New York Men's Day: A user’s guide to discover garb for the guys
There is practically no menswear season in New York anymore. It's now largely a series of major league brand shows that include menswear looks in the thriller shows; albeit of dash and pep. In effect, there was one day of actionably emerging talent in an old building on the edge of Hudson Yards.
Among the bigger players, Tommy Hilfiger did deliver. His voluminous new silhouette is sure to be influential, as is his linkup with Richard Quinn, the reigning prince of Pommy printmakers. Or Michael Kors, whose minimalist revival menswear resort wear was spruce and sharp.
In the streetwear category, two men's brands made their mark this season: Who Decides War by Ev Bravado and Tela D'Amore, which also debuted women's, and Midnight Studios by Shane Gonzales. Showing at NYFW for the first time, Gonzales packed star-power guests Jordan Clarkson, G-Eazy, Skepta, and others for the 'And Love Said No' collection that was a collaboration with the iconic goth rock band, H.I.M.
Over near Hudson Yards, five brands at NYMD stood out, notably Nobis, the Canadian marque which manages to combine sturdy winter gear, sustainability, and a soupçon of Klondike-cool.
Nobis generously sponsored NYMD, or New York Men's Day, staged over two floors, with its own presentation featuring lots of smart garment concepts. Like very cool, new scarf jackets - lightweight puffers with extended shawl collars.
"Besides enjoying the chance to help young designers, we also see there is plenty of possibility for linkups down the road," explained Robin Yates, Nobis CEO, and founder.
NYMD's most compelling voice was Terry Singh and his 'New York Suit; concept, a blend of finely cut jackets and tuxedos paired with kilts and dhotis from Terry's native India. Made in checks, madras cotton, serge wool, and metallics, they all looked great.
"Connecting traditional Indian culture with fine western tailoring," explained Singh of his noble and natty concept.
Others to impress were Terry Vonranson, a Ralph Lauren alumni, whose desert hues, western nomadic ,dandy style was subtle and clever.
For some great classy modernist knits, trimmed in crystal and paired with colonial shorts, there was a great resource called Amirok. And with New York restaurants buzzing this season, dressed up suiting an Atelier Cillian really made an impact.
Founded in 2014 by Agentry PR principal Erin Hawker due to the dearth of a devoted New York men's season, the event is now in its 19th edition.
"We created New York Men's Day (NYMD) to give emerging talent a platform to showcase their collections. We provide 85% of funding and a viewshed to the most important media and buyers that most young talent wouldn't be able to get in front of without help. NYMD has stayed true to its mission to help the menswear community with an inclusivity attitude. Albeit we have also shifted from menswear to include genderless as a category," said Hawker.
Men's, women's, and kids' outerwear brand established in 2007 in Toronto and designed by designed by Michael Kerr and Robin Yates, co-founder and vice president. 19 seasons at NYMD as the event sponsor. Sold at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ssense and Nobis.com.
Luxury outerwear from Toronto. Minimal, clean, and understanding. City dwellers, urban sophisticates.
"New York Men's Day has given Nobis the opportunity to support creative talent and simultaneously unveil our Fall/Winter 2022 collection to show the fresh direction the brand is taking with its collections," said CEO, Yates.
Designer menswear ready-to-wear and custom/bespoke collection established in 2021 in London, now based in New York and designed by Stephen Mikhail. Two seasons at NYMD. Wholesale accounts are pending in this first sales season.
Dualistic in nature, straddling a balance between masculine and feminine. It really adapts to the wearer. Counts Steve Aoki and Machine Gun Kelly as clients.
Spring 2023 collection 'The Hubris of Howard Carter' was based on the voracious appetite of archeologist Howard Carter in his final days of being funded by his patron, Lord Carnarvon, to uncover discoveries in Egypt's Valley of the Kings. Various shades of gold and navy, inspired by ancient Egyptian reliefs and treasures, are prevalent throughout the collection.
"The existing infrastructure lets me focus on what is most important, the vision I want to share with the world and how I want to present it," said Mikhail.
Luxury menswear brand established in 2016 in New York and designed by Desyree Nicole and co-owned by Gabriella Paulino. Debut season at NYMD.
Tailored, comfort, refreshing; the customer are mainly men, but a lot of women gravitate towards the brand.
"Being able to share our vision and art with the world on a larger platform. So many friends and family were able to come and share that experience. Specifically, my little sister Paeton could see us in our element, and she loved that we cast a female model for the first time. Very thankful and let us know that we're doing exactly what we're meant to be," said Nicole.
Designer menswear established in 2018 in New York City and designed by Teddy von Ranson. Two digital and three in-person seasons exhibiting at NYMD.
Made for modern American men aged 25 to 55. Sold at Neiman Marcus, Ron Herman and TeddyvonRanson.com.
"Launching a brand during the pandemic was very challenging. As an emerging brand NYMD has provided a platform to be seen and recognized by many members of the fashion community, both locally and internationally," said von Ranson.
Contemporary menswear collection established in 2020 out of his dorm room at Fordham University and designed by Nicholas Raefski. Two seasons at NYMD. Distribution is direct-to-consumer.
"Our customer, aged 15 to 35, wants to look like the best version of themselves," according to the designer brand.
"NY men's day has been an amazing outlet to help display my creativity! It has really helped to give us a platform to showcase our hard work," added Raefski.
Unisex clothing brand established with Spring/Summer 2019 collection in Brooklyn designed by Aaron Potts. Six seasons at NYMD. Shifting to focus on e-commerce and then build wholesale.
"The brand gives people tools to explore, express, and celebrate themselves and their individuality. The brand makes clothes and moments that dull the hard edges of convention around age, gender, size, and race; creative clothes become a useful and versatile uniform and layer in special, seasonal pieces with an 'everyday-editorial' vibe. Customers are creative thinkers who like the ease of a modern uniform and want the opportunity to express themselves in dramatic ways through bold silhouettes, volume, and great color. Artists of all ilks are drawn to A. Potts—designers, musicians, models, painters, actors, and other creative souls," according to the brand.
"The best thing about showing at NYMD is the immeasurable level of brand awareness and direct connection to important stylists, editors, and other fashion important and has afforded me another way to define my brand because putting on fashion presentations forces you to hone in on your voice in a very succinct and focused way," said Potts.
Menswear/unisex collection established in 2019 based in Kyoto, Japan. Formerly known as '9M, the brand is designed by Riki Yoshida. First time at NYMD. Sold at Hollywood Ranch Market, Ciacura, Zalife, Cogito Ergo Sum Tokyo in Japan, and TNT Canada.
"Emphasizing gender-neutral silhouettes for ages 30 to 50 are looking for a unique piece of clothing that has a mix of contemporary luxury design and understands quality and craftsmanship. Holo Market is designed to make people feel happy and positive wearing our clothes; something that brings joy and euphoria," said the brand.
"Having had the opportunity to expose our brand for the first time in the U.S.A and getting live feedback from guests at the event!" said Yoshida.
Terry Singh NYC
Menswear and children collection was established in 2014 in New York City and designed by Terry Singh. Two seasons showing at NYMD. FGI Rising Star 2022, menswear designer of the year finalist. Distribution via Terrysinghnyc.com. Customer demographic is celebrity and high-net worth individuals.
"Love is inherently free–so must your clothes be. There is no love without freedom. Clothes that celebrate your freedom and celebrate your highest state of love," according to the brand.
Spring 2023 season inspiration: "What limits me?" and "Am I free"? I am deeply honored to know that what limits me are just thoughts: it's that simple. We are inherently free. My clothes are a conduit for my values of freedom, celebration, and connection. I make them inspire to you."
Men's knitwear brand established in 2019 in Florence, Italy, designed by Michael Nelson.
Three seasons at NYMD. Distribution at luxury hotel boutiques El Fenn & Noema Mykonos and retailer Long Alara plus online at Amirok.com.
"Amirok is a luxury knitwear collection made entirely of 100% recycled mulberry silk for men ages 30 to 50 who are curious about the world at large and eco-conscious, and value craftsmanship. We embellish the collection with findings from around the world, bridging cultures and artisans in a global exchange of ideas," describes the brand.
"The best part of participating at New York Men's Day is the opportunity to show with fellow designers to create a powerful centralized group that brings the most influential people from the industry," said Nelson.
Urban, genderless, also often identified in the "high street" category established in 2016 and designed by Maya Wang. Three seasons at NYMD. Sold at the Soho flagship store and online and select retailers in the U.S. and internationally.
"Fried Rice is completely focused on the creative community; on celebrating the diversity of creative and cultural perspectives here in our NYC neighborhood and worldwide. The mood and aesthetic of the brand are a kind of mashed-up creativity and energy that wells up from the dynamism of the diversity of these creative and cultural perspectives around us. Our customer is anyone delighted or motivated by creativity and creative aspiration," according to the brand.
"Men's Day is a special and important platform in the fashion week ecosystem because its mission is to kick off fashion week by shining a light on what's next. Men's Day is a stage for fresh, innovative perspectives. The best part about Men's Day for us is that we have so much freedom to bring many amazing new people into our community by turning up the music and being ourselves," said Wang.
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