Paul Smith has got Tuscany on his mind
Paul Smith is off to his villa in Italy next week, and already has all the clothes one might want to wear in Tuscany, an ideal Spring/Summer collection to finally escape the pandemic.
Lightweight jackets in twills and cottons, with no structure and no shoulder pads, all made for a very easy-to-wear spring/summer 2022 collection, presented digitally Friday afternoon as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
The designer dreaming of getting outdoors again and back to his house near Lucca, using a colour palette of dawn-to-dusk colours.
“Light of sunshine in the morning; pale citrus or ecru and terracotta like the local buildings,” he mused.
Fashion’s knight also whipped up great floral print jerkins, jeans and tops, featuring images of sunflower fields in Tuscany. One even printed on a lightweight seersucker top, others in Hawaiian-style shirts.
His high-colour, horizontal-stripe knits featured multiple finishes, made from contrasting moss stitches or diagonal stitches. Plus, he finished many items with zig-zag stitching, like the form used on Hobie Cat sail stitching.
His summer-fun dudes all shod in docksiders – in Smith’s case “old Massachusetts, hairy, suede dock shoes.”
In his showroom there will still be classic suits, but with the break from the lockdown such a priority, men want casual clothing above all, Smith reckons.
“It will take some time for time to get guys to back into suits after this long period casually dressed at home. They will again but it will take time. I’m off to Lucca next week. Though we have to isolate for five days when we arrive. New regulations. We have not been allowed out of Britain for so long! First time in years I have not been to Japan – normally go every year,” lamented Sir Paul, in a pre-show zoom.
Despite not making it to Japan, the collection also featured a partnership with cult local bag company Porter – again riffing on his signature contrasting stripe codes. Seen in Smith’s oeuvre everywhere from his iconic Mini Cooper S to cycling tops.
“They are old mates of mine the Yoshida family who own Porter. I’m real chuffed that they wanted to do something and I'm very pleased with the results,” smiled Smith.
His seven-minute show video featured 42 outfits, presented like a live show, though pre-recorded in a studio in Acton with a cloud formation ceiling, and his cast marching on a mock terrazzo floor.
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