Feb 26, 2017
Reading time
2 minutes
Download the article
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Struggling Bottega Veneta seduces with 1940s silhouettes

Feb 26, 2017

Bottega Veneta looked to the 1940s for inspiration for its understated but luxurious autumn-winter 2017 collection showing Saturday in Milan, with fitted waists, accentuated shoulders and day-time tuxedos. The show came as the label struggles and continues to under-perform other Kering-owned brands.

Bottega Veneta - Fall-Winter2017 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula

Creative Director Tomas Maeir is the latest fashion great to sign up to the co-ed movement, and showed his men's and women's collections together for the first time here.

Need a red carpet dress or off for a spot of horse riding? Maeir has something for both occasions with creations which ran from a stunning evening gown in gold fluid metal and silk to jodhpurs with a billowing hip.

Model Eva Herzigova donned the riding pants and a pair of long, striped leather gloves for her appearance on the catwalk. Her male counterparts also showed off double-breasted coats that recalled riding or frock coats.

The watchword was simplicity: double-faced cashmere jackets and coats were colour-blocked -- in beautiful ochres and terracottas -- but unadorned, while a cape had nothing but a simple metal piercing as a clasp at the neck. Skirts were done in multi plaid wool, gloves in suede, bags in goat hair and pumps in dark gold lizard.

But the take-home image was the revival of the 1940s silhouette in dresses, overcoats or suits, more often than not clinched at the waist with double-buckled belts.

The men's collection appeared to be more a complement to the women's range rather than an offering which was full-bodied enough to also stand alone. "They speak the same language," Maeir said in the notes to the show.

Tuxedos were the theme, though the wide-bow ties in black or white pois silk were matched with both traditional dress shirts and softer polo necks or cashmere cardigans.

Shoes for next season? Round-toe lace-ups with buckles for men, and wedge boots or pumps for women -- at least for the downtime between horse-back rides.

Copyright © 2022 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.