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Jun 23, 2009
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Thursday kick-off for men’s ready-to-wear catwalks, spring-summer 2010

By
AFP
Published
Jun 23, 2009

PARIS, 23 June 2009 (AFP) – The men’s ready-to-wear catwalks for spring-summer 2010 begin on Thursday 25 June in Paris and will last for five days with a programme as charged and international as in previous seasons, despite the economic crisis.


Alexis Mabille collection autumn-winter 2009/2010

The only major absentee: Yohji Yamamoto who, for the first time in almost twenty years, will not present his collection on the runway but in his showroom from 27 June to 3 July. It is a measure of “control” and “good sense” in the current economic context as the organization of a catwalk show takes a large budget, explained a spokesperson for the Japanese label.

Belgian designer Véronique Branquinho will also be absent, her business having been forced to file for bankruptcy a few weeks ago following payment problems with its suppliers, according to a spokesperson.

Close to fifty designers and brands will present their work, of which more than half a dozen will be newcomers.

It is one of these, Alexis Mabille, who will open the ball on Thursday 25 June. The French stylist, considered by the press as one of the most promising of her generation, slipped a few men’s outfits into her haute couture catwalk show in January. This bow-tie enthusiast, which he spreads throughout his collections, is a graduate of the Chambre Syndicale de Haute Couture and continued to develop notably at Emanuel Ungaro, Nina Ricci and Christian Dior. Additionally, he is artistic director of Pyrenex, a jacket specialist, for whom he has designed a refined and urban range.

Another stylist based in Paris, Sebastien D. Rodriguez, who trained as a master tailor at Saint Martin’s School in London, is also making his first appearance.

In addition to its menswear collection, the brand Billtomade from the brothers Francis and José Ronez will present models for boys from 8-16 years old. The brand has effectively decided to “concentrate on men” and to wind down its “much more commercially difficult” ladies’ line, said a spokesperson.

The schedule will also allow for the appearance of the work of the American Tim Hamilton, recently commended by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, of the South Korean Song Zio and of the Emirati Khalid Al Qasami.

Almost all of the presentations will take place over the first four days, including the most well known labels: Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier and Emanuel Ungaro on Thursday 25 June, Thierry Mugler, Givenchy and John Galliano on Friday 26 June, Kenzo and Hermès on Saturday 27 June and Lanvin and Dior on Sunday 28 June.

Dai Fujiwara, who presented his collections for Issey Miyake last time in static mannequins, can be seen on the runway on Thursday 25 June.

New this year, Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent has opted for a catwalk during a welcome event on Wednesday (24 June) evening and a presentation at a showroom gathering on Thursday 25 June.


House of the Very Island collection autumn-winter 2009/2010

On the last day of the event on Monday 29 June, only two houses will be presenting their collection: Marchand Drapier, a family business based in Toulouse, and House of the Very Island, a duo of Austrian designers who only use organic textiles.

By Jonathan Fulwell (Source: AFP/Dominique SCHROEDER)

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