ANDAM announces 2018 finalists
There are fifteen of them, fifteen finalists who will be presenting their projects to the ANDAM jury on June 29 in the hopes of taking home one of four prizes to be awarded by the prestigious association which has been supporting design since its foundation in 1989. There are a few familiar names among them, including some labels which are also competing, in parallel, for the LVMH Prize, such as A Cold Wall, Eckhaus Latta and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
With LVMH executive committee member Pierre-Yves Roussel having been named as the prize mentor for this year, ANDAM will have to choose between five finalists for its Fashion Award, worth 250,000 euros. The first label in the running for the grand prize is A Cold Wall, headed by British designer and former disciple of Virgil Abloh, Samuel Ross, offering a deconstructed urban menswear collection. Another country represented at the competition through this streetwear aesthetic is Japan, with Hiromichi Ochiai's Facetasm. With plans to host a runway show at the next Paris Men's Fashion Week on June 20, just a few days before the final ANDAM presentation, the label is the oldest of the finalists, having been founded in Tokyo eleven years ago.
These two menswear brands will have to compete against three labels targeting women. French-born, Antwerp-educated designer Antonin Tron is participating with his label Atlein, which has shown its collections in Paris since its launch in 2016, consistently questioning the effect of movement on silhouettes with panache. In a similar queen-like category is Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen, fresh off her success at the last Copenhagen Fashion Week. Her aesthetic revolves around a delicate and inspired womenswear wardrobe, enriched by Bahnsen's unique approach to textures, which she has been cleverly interweaving since the launch of her label in 2015.
The fifth competitor for the ANDAM Fashion Award is American brand Eckhaus Latta, founded in New York in 2012 by Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus. This rising star on the American fashion scene, which produces coed collections, could well snatch up some accolades in Paris this season thanks to its cool, refreshing wardrobe, qualities also reflected in its marketing.
ANDAM also announced four finalists in its Creative Label category (formerly "First Collections") the prize for which amounts to 100,000 euros. Following in the footsteps of last year's winners, French duo Avoc, this year's Gallic finalists include Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who is already attracting attention with the eponymous coed label he launched in 2017, and Pierre Kaczmarek, the young founder of Afterhomework, a label he currently leads with Italian partner, stylist Elena Mottola.
Swiss designer Kevin Germanier will also be presenting his surprising, pixelated wardrobe, all very couture and visually impacting. Rounding out the group of four is Brazilian designer Francisco Terra, currently based in Paris, who will compete with his womenswear label Neith Nyer. Having previously worked with Givenchy and Carven, Terra now offers up his own explosively sexy aesthetic, eccentrically exploring the limits of androgyny.
This leaves two more categories: Accessories and Fashion Innovation. Three labels have been selected to compete in the former, which has a prize fund of 50,000 euros. D'Heygere, named after its Belgian founder Stéphanie D'Heygere, subverts accessories from their intended function or gives them another dimension, both literally and figuratively. PB0110 was founded by German designer Philipp Bree in 2012 and specializes in leather "with soul", while Worn, a Genevan brand co-founded by Pauline Famy and Magda Brozda, will be hoping to catch the jury's attention with its reimagined bags.
Finally, this year is only the second edition of the recently created Fashion Innovation Award, which boasts a prize of 30,000 euros, up for grabs by one of its three competing finalists: Colorfix, which researches new responsible dyeing procedures for the future, Daco, a specialist in real-time retail competitive benchmarking, and Tekyn, which offers a solution connecting retailers and manufacturers in an effort to tighten distribution networks.
Last year, ANDAM 2017 awarded the Fashion Innovation Prize to Euveka's intelligent mannequins, while Glenn Martens' Y/Project received the Fashion Award, Avoc took home the Creative Label Award and Ana Khouri was victorious in the Accessories category.
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