Sep 21, 2015
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Burberry lives up to its own hype at London Fashion Week

Sep 21, 2015

It was one of the most hotly anticipated shows of London Fashion Week, and the Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2016 didn't disappoint on the runway Monday.

Chief Creative Christopher Bailey delivered an idyllic, sensorial fusion of heritage classics and directional, whimsical pieces in a luxurious and grown-up palette of black, cream, navy and golden tones.

Burberry SS16 womenswear runway show - Burberry

There was a strong focus on texture, with weather-proof silk, double-faced cashmere and printed tulle offering romance and seduction, while metallic cording, regimental buttons and metal chain closures kept things modern and orderly. To this end, a nude macramé lace mini skirt was paired with a sturdy trench with tethered fastenings, and a swishy, floor-length, fluid silk dress was offset by heavy chained black sandals and a buckled backpack.

In a regal nod to the house's English heritage reputation, there was gold embroidering over almost everything, providing brooch-like decoration for the lapels of a navy blazer and lining the edges of the woven black sandals. Metallic-toned piping added an art deco element to the waist section of a pair of drapey black trousers, while a double-breasted lace trench was adorned with gold cording joining each pair of buttons, epitomizing the studied irreverence of the collection.

Burberry SS16 womenswear runway show finale - Burberry

The crochet shirts seen on the catwalks of London Collections: Men back in the summer made a reappearance here, worn with soft cashmere trousers and tasseled loafers. There was crocheting for the girls, too, although it was referenced through dresses featuring precision cutaway details rather than actual lace. Instead there was polka dot chiffon, and Swarovski crystal tie-dyed artwork on silk, featuring a graphic motif falling somewhere between a flower and a crucifix.

In a fashion first, the collection was previewed the day before the show on social media platform Snapchat. It was also streamed live on the channel in ‘The Snapchat Show', a move that facilitated instant but elusive global access to the collection. Accessible yet ethereal: it could have been a metaphor for the clothes themselves.

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