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Oct 17, 2014
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Eddy Anemian: “H&M’s size has given me an enormous amount of resources to produce my collection"

Published
Oct 17, 2014

50,000 euros and the opportunity to produce a capsule collection: that's what Eddy Anemian won in January along with the H&M Design Award. The French recent graduate of La Cambre shares with FashionMag.com what he has learned from putting together a capsule from his couture collection. While his mini-collection will arrive in selected H&M stores and on its e-shop on October 23, he also talks about the dreams that have been fueled by his initial success with the competition…

Eddy Anemian observes one of his models for his H&M capsule. Photo: H&M.


FashionMag.com: How did the process of carving out a capsule from the collection that allowed you to win the H&M Design Award go?

Eddy Anemian:
Actually, it was a matter of finding ten pieces that embodied the essence of the collection, while conserving its creative aspects and obviously making it commercial. It was a real balancing act. Initially, I presented five silhouettes for the contest. After winning, I had to prepare a show for Stockholm fashion week, which of course called for a longer story. So I put together nineteen looks. Then, it had to be cut down to ten pieces, while keeping the emphasis on certain key characteristics, namely ruffles, strips of frayed fabric and, of course, unusual looks.

FM: Wasn’t translating the collection into something commercial frustrating?

EA: No! First of all, because I worked with a team that had more a great deal of experience with capsules. It was crazy to think that before me, a student, they had worked with Comme des Garcons and Isabel Marant, not to mention Alexander Wang! They always hit the mark in the materials and finishes they suggested, while at the same time letting me have the final say—a terrific experience to have at 24 years old! I think the finished product is true to what I originally drew, and I'm very happy because the prices make my work very accessible (from 25 to 250 euros for the strongest piece from capsule, the a yellow, frayed skirt, ed.)

FM: You seem to be very couture-mind. Are you worried about working with a "behemoth" like H&M?

EA: I might have been somewhat apprehensive at first, but I realized quickly that H&M’s would give me an enormous amount of resources to produce the collection. The budget for the capsule made almost anything possible technically! I even got to go to the fittings at the manufacturer of the capsule, in Shanghai... And above all, contrary to what I might have thought, the name "H&M" isn’t to heavy at all. In the marketing, my name is just as present as that of the brand. It’s pretty extraordinary, the way, the amount of global press that has been generated by the capsule. I didn’t expect all this ...

FM: So, what do you think you will do with all this attention and the 50,000-euro award?

EA: I just finished my last year at La Cambre. I am currently interning at Christian Dior. I want to learn about how several houses work, after having worked at Balenciaga last year. But my idea is to start my own brand quickly, it's obviously a dream that 50,000 euros will help... But I realize that for putting together my first collection, organizing my first fashion show, the money is going to go very quickly. So why not participate in other competitions and look for patrons... I'm not rich, so I’ll need all the financial support I can get for what I want to do!

FM: Are you going to watch how the capsule does in stores closely?

EA: I’m very curious to know who will buy which piece, and how the customers will wear them! On the release day, I’ll also take a tour of the stores in Paris, where the collection will be sold, on rue de Rivoli and the Champs-Elysées. There will be also a special showcase on the Champs, so I'll definitely take some photos and see what happens... But it will be short, and I’ll be at my internship at 9:30, whatever happens!

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