Fashion Week: CFDA "the time is favourable for change."
Mar 4, 2016
A study sponsored by the representative body of the US fashion industry (CFDA) conducted by Boston Consulting Group proposes to significantly change the Fashion Week model by presenting clothes that are immediately available for sale.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is not taking sides and is merely highlighting that the general sentiment of professionals profiled for the study believe that “the time is favourable for change”.
The study suggests to present collections during the corresponding season and to end the six-month lag currently in force (spring presented in the fall).
The study also suggests to present clothes during or after Fashion Week that are immediately available for sale.
This study confirms a major trend seen at the most recent New York Fashion Week showcase in mid-February.
Rebecca Minkoff, Tommy Hilfiger, Burberry, Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch, Paco Rabanne and Courrèges all announced that they were ready to follow this new path.
This change is primarily due to the fact that runway presentations have now becomes public events. Brands are finally accepting that their own runway shows are filmed and largely shared online.
Until now, this new interest and promotion could not be converted into sales because collections were not available before a number of months.
According to this new model suggested by the study, collections will still be prepared six months in advance, but will be presented in confidence to both buyers and certain media.
Only six months later will it be revealed to the press and the public.
Manufacturing lead times will therefore not be reduced.
This new operational model will also prevent giant fast fashion brands from introducing looks inspired by the runway before actual collections hit the market.
Still, the study warns that the goal of the study is not the make Fashion Week a purely commercial of marketable event.
The majority of people interviewed did not favor opening runway presentations to the general public and believes that not all clothing should be immediately available for sale.
Without engaging, the CFDA says it will “encourage designers to try new concepts.”
The movement towards the model of immediately available clothes is receiving strong reservations in Europe.
The organizers of Paris Fashion Week, the Fédération française de la Couture, and its Italian counterpart are also in opposition for the sake of creativity.
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