Marni puts the spotlight on menswear at Pitti Uomo
With a wool hat, colourful mohair sweaters (ochre, bottle green) worn over roomy shirts, protected by fur coats/jackets, the new Marni man looks like a sensible young man lost in the Steppes.
The impression is emphasised by the decor, with the models walking around imposing bronze knights by contemporary sculptor Marino Marini, in the museum dedicated to him in Florence. It was a successful return to the podium for Marni Homme, which hadn't been in a show since fall/winter 2009-10.
The collection for fall/winter 2015-16 designed by Consuelo Castiglioni, founder and creative director of Marni, the guest of honour of the 87th edition of Pitti Uomo and whose show took place on Thursday the 15th, was much applauded. In its usual, slightly offbeat style, the brand was able to renew the masculine wardrobe with small touches and invisible details blending codes with subtlety. The coats don't have collars, softening the silhouette. The micro-checks in different shades of grey pop out between the shirt and the suit.
Some of the trousers are flared, making it possible to see a coloured lining in the folds. Fur is everywhere, worn with nonchalant elegance. Sleeveless coats made of alpaca, lambskin and astrakhan compete with oversized horsehide t-shirts. And half-wool half-fur hats along with fur-lined bags top off the accessories.
"The collection has grown these last few seasons. The menswear now constitutes a complete, steadily increasing, ready-to-wear and accessories line. We are above all focusing on the tailoring, knitwear, dress shirts, and notably on the accessories, shoes, bags and small leather goods," explained Consuelo Castiglioni.
This show is part of an ambitious development strategy for Marni Homme. Launched with spring/summer 2002, the menswear line still only represents a very small part of the sales and has not yet expressed its full potential. Acquired at the end of 2012 by the OTB group owned by Renzo Rosso, who was present at the show, the brand now has the financial means to pick up the pace.
Global distribution has been entrusted to Tomorrow London. "The menswear line is currently distributed through 200 multi-brands recording a strong growth in business these last few seasons," said the house.
"That is why Marni menswear will have more space in our stores and will be developed later on in new points of sale, such as San Francisco and Milan," it concluded.
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