Jan 23, 2015
Paris menswear fashion week: Maison Margiela
Jan 23, 2015
The newly rebranded Maison Margiela unveiled its Fall/Winter 2015 collection Friday morning, the first under new creative director John Galliano.
Maison Margiela popped its Galliano cherry in London earlier this month with an off-schedule 'Artisanal' haute couture show at the tail end of the London Collections: Men events. Now the reformed enfant terrible was ready to show his debut menswear in Paris. The collection cleverly trod the line between Margiela staples, including deconstructed pieces like sawn-off sleevless trenchcoats and painted leather boots, and Galliano's trademark exuberance.
Key to everything was a sense of 70s retro-experimentation and an added ease with color (courtesy of the Brit). Leather outerwear was worn with high-waisted loose-cut trousers, with glam-rock metallic lurex knits sitting alongside psychedelic print pants.
Models wore rings, and had their fingers dipped in colored paint or pigment, some of them with matching guyliner. Two of the season's key trends were there with a couple of takes on peacoats, and some corduroy pants. Tailoring also came both single and double-breasted (most labels seem happy to offer something for fans of both at the moment). The best pieces? The painted canvas waistcoats that summed up the spirit of both Margiela and Galliano: raw and bohemian, and yet artfully inventive.
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