Trends from Milan FW: classics revisited, plus frills and fringe
today Sep 26, 2016
As Milan Fashion Week wraps up, fashion journalist Sophie de Champsavin of Paris Modes TV gives us her take on this latest round of catwalk shows, showcasing upcoming trends and new faces to watch out for on the runway.
What were the key trends for spring/summer 2017 in Milan?
Lots of frills and decorative details were seen on all pieces in next summer's womenswear wardrobe, notably embroidery, bright materials, audacious and vivid colors, and plenty of floral prints. There was a positive energy in Milan, as designers strived for a multicultural elegance, channeling travel-focused and exotic themes in all collections. Materials were meticulous, refined, unique and distinct to each label, keen to stand out from the crowd. Waistlines were high, with belts used to create effects and ties that structure the silhouette, creating new shapes and volumes.
There was a return to a certain femininity and simplicity, but only in appearance! All collections hinted at garments that are easy to transport, to wear and to keep throughout the seasons. Revisited classics are the new challenge for designers.
We were treated to a dynamic season marked with a host of events, like the 50th anniversary of Bottega Veneta and 15 years with its creative director Tomas Maier at the helm, as well as the festive ambiance at Philipp Plein, with a musical performance from Fergie, the Naples gang chic of Dolce & Gabbana, the African twist at Antonio Marras, the unfailing creativity of Prada, Fendi and Marni, the colors of Pucci and Trussardi, the sex appeal of Missoni and Roberto Cavalli, the invigorating youth of Giambattista Valli and Marco de Vincenzo, the revisited exoticism of Stella Jean, the glam rock of DSquared2, and the inescapable exuberance of Gucci. The Italian labels proved once again that Milan Fashion Week is capable of reinventing itself with the passing seasons.
What were the key pieces for the spring/summer 2017 season?
There are several. The dress will be a key piece for summer, but frills and fringes will also be big. There will be lots of accessories to customize looks, with various types of jewel-encrusted shoes, plus pleats for fuller volumes, belted high-waist pants and long Bermuda shorts.
How has the new trend for buy-now-see-now changed the ambiance at fashion week?
"See now, buy now" isn't really on the agenda in Italy, where the emphasis is on creativity and artisanal skills. Each piece seems unique and is brimming with detail and various embellishments.
Which models stood out as faces to watch for?
The Milan shows brought diversity to the runway, with plenty of darker skin tones and girls with African origins, as well as Lineisy Montero and Luisana Gonzalez from the Dominican Republic.
Along with the inevitable Bella and Gigi Hadid, Milan saw comebacks from Naomi Campbell, who trod the Versace catwalk, and Lauren Hutton for Bottega Veneta, celebrating the label's 50th anniversary and 15 years with its current creative director.
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